As with literally any pet or farm animal, there is TONS of information and the “do’s and don’ts” can feel overwhelming when you’re just starting out. I certainly don’t have all the answers, but I at least know a few things that do and don’t work well when it comes to raising rabbits. I hope this helps and I’d be happy to continue to edit as questions arise!

Food

Most modern-day domesticated rabbits eat free-choice hay and small amounts of processed pellets. All of our rabbits are also introduced to oats, as well as daily greens and fodder that we grow, forage and dehydrate for them to eat throughout the winter.

If you are new to rabbits, it’s important to note that their gastrointestinal tracts are very sensitive to change, so any new foods should be introduced carefully. Always watch for signs of bloat (changes in eating habits, hunched posture, teeth grinding) diarrhea, or soft pellets.

Hay: There are many different types of hay available both locally or via pet/farm stores. Timothy hay is the most widely used form that yields on average about 7-10% protein. First cutting (meaning the first cut of the season prior to blooming) is drier and has more stems than leaves. It’s great for rabbits who are overweight or prone to G.I. stasis. Second cutting timothy hay is softer, greener, and has a higher protein but lower fiber content than first cutting. It’s usually more attractive for rabbits to eat. Third cutting is also an option, but is very low in fiber and higher in fat. It can be mixed or offered as a treat.

Alfalfa hay is also appropriate for young kits or as an occasional treat, but with it’s higher protein content (12-15%) it can also cause weight gain. Oat hay is incredibly easy to digest because it’s higher in fiber, but is lower in protein. It’s good to have on hand for nursing mothers, or for cases of diarrhea.

Depending on the amount of rabbits you plan on having and your available storage space, hay can be purchased in large quantities or in smaller bales, as long as it is kept dry and mold-free. We use Sweet Meadow Farms Organic Herbs & Timothy Hay and store it in a galvanized metal garbage bin.

Pellets: For the ideal protein content of 17%, the main ingredient in most pellets is alfalfa. As mentioned, it can cause weight gain, so rabbits over 6 months old should never be fed free-choice pellets (unless pregnant or nursing).

Because their digestive tracts are so sensitive, we believe that high-quality organic feed (free from pesticides, chemicals, fillers or preservatives) will yield healthier, more vibrant rabbits. We feed Modesto Millings Organic Rabbit Feed.

Organic Oats: For growing rabbits, free choice oats along with pellets help with protein and fiber. We suggest unlimited oats and pellets for rabbits 6 months and under. A Tablespoon of oats is also a coveted treat for an adult rabbit, especially during shedding season! Any organic oats (rolled or steel cut) will do.

Fodder: We live in the woods and find that most of the native plants that naturally surround us are safe and edible for rabbits with a few exceptions. Rabbits are also wise enough to choose what they need and what they should and should not eat. If you have a more formal garden or are unsure, it’s always worth noting what plants are poisonous to rabbits.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Rosslyn & Dave (@ournookofthewoods)

Some of the best medicinal/antiparasitic plants to grow and feed regularly: plantain, dandelion, comfrey, willow (leaves and bark), and stinging nettle.

A few of their favorites: maple and birch leaves and branches, American spice bush, kale, radish, wild flowers, and raspberry leaves. Wheatgrass is an easy and healthy option to grow indoors through the winter.

Rabbits have very sensitive gastrointestinal tracts. They can not burp or pass gas, so new foods or treats in excess can cause serious or deadly bloating.

Housing

Indoors or outside? Cages, hutches or pens? There are so many options for housing your rabbit or multiple rabbits, and a lot will depend on your goals.

Above all, rabbits need a secure, well-ventilated area that can be easily cleaned.

If you want to eventually breed rabbits or plan to have multiple, outdoors is often the best choice. But just like with people, fresh air and sunlight are important for their health. If you plan on keeping your rabbits 100% indoors, be sure they are still able to get some sunlight.

For outdoor rabbits, as long as they can tuck in completely out of the elements, you need not worry about rabbits in the winter, but they are incredibly sensitive to heat and susceptible to heat stroke if they do not have enough shade and cool water.

Unfortunately, rabbits are very territorial and cannot typically share housing unless you are raising as a large colony with significant space. (Colony raising is a great option for some, but it is very difficult to monitor or control health, disease, pregnancies and kindling.) If you are breeding, plan on as large of a cage as you can afford or build for each breeder, plus even larger housing for grow-outs. We also suggest a secure run or an area where rabbits can hop around and get some exercise.

I originally struggled with the idea of keeping rabbits in cages. But I learned a LOT about why domesticated rabbits are housed in cages and shared a blog post on it.

Why are rabbits kept in cages?

Mine do NOT spend their entire day/lives in a cage, but KW Cages were the best choice for us for ventilation, safety, durability and cleanliness. While wooden hutches look cozier, they are often chewed (rendering them unsafe) and cannot be sanitized.

Rabbits are very curious and social, so ideally, it’s great to set up their home in a high-traffic area where they will receive lots of interaction.

Our screen porch offers us the perfect set up for protection from weather, a safe ‘run’ area, and convenient access to power and interaction.

Cleaning

Let’s talk about rabbit waste! Rabbit poop is one of the most versatile and complete forms of fertilizer you can use in your garden. There are many ways to easily set up a collection system so that you can reap all of the benefits for your garden.

More about rabbit fertilizer

If you are building your own cage or have multiple cages, you can design a ramp collection system underneath to divert waste directly into a bin or compost area. We prefer trays so that each individual rabbit can be more easily monitored for any health issues or changes in bowel habits. They are easy to remove and empty out. You cannot allow waste to accumulate underneath or near your rabbits because it will attract flies and parasites.

You must always keep flies away from your rabbitry. Flystrike (also known as myasis) is a serious condition in rabbits caused by flies laying eggs on their body. These eggs hatch out into maggots that feed on your rabbit's skin, often fatal within 24 hours.

Indoors or outdoors, rabbits can also often be litter-trained, by placing a litter-box in their ‘potty corner.’ When free-roaming, they will often go to the bathroom while eating, so you can place a litter tray under their hay rack. We suggest Kritter Litter to get them started and then eventually transitioning toward recycled paper, wood shavings, or hay.

Foolproof litter-training can be a little more challenging with multiple rabbits as they tend to ‘mark’ areas outside of the litter-box with bunny berries. You also want to be cautious if multiple rabbits are using the same litter areas that they are not eating each other’s feces.

Frequently Asked Questions:

Below are a few catch-all questions I often receive and a bit more detail. If you think of something missing or have anything to add, I’d love to hear it!

Besides shade and ample supply of cool water, rabbits love fans, ice cubes with greens or herbs frozen into them, ceramic tile to lay on, and frozen water bottles to lay against.
Rabbits regulate their temperature through their ears, so dampening their ears with cool water multiple times per day in extreme temperatures is helpful and appreciated.
Below are links for the basics that we use and you will need before you can bring home your bun:
Modesto Millings Organic Rabbit Feed
Sweet Meadow Farms Organic Hay
Organic Rolled Oats
KW Cages
Other than housing, you will also need a large hay rack, water crocks and a sifter feeder. Keep in mind that rabbits love to dig, chew, and hop around. Anything that can be knocked over, spilled, dug in or destroyed will be in short order.
We suggest heavy ceramic water crocks or wall-mounted stainless steel water dishes. In warm climates, rabbits cannot drink enough water from hanging bottles. They also are difficult to sanitize and can harbor mold and bacteria.
If you are breeding, you will need to build or purchase appropriately sized nesting boxes.
Rabbits love to dig, chew and explore. I like to rotate a few toys and hanging chews around to keep their interest.
Save your cardboard boxes! Unpainted cardboard is healthy for rabbits to chew and they love to dig and tear at it.
Toilet paper rolls can also be stuffed with hay or fresh herbs, or hung with twine. Even metal canning rings are a toy of choice because they are easy to pick up, flip and throw!
Rabbits clean themselves well like cats, but benefit from monitoring and a little support. Regularly check to be sure that the insides of their ears and their bums are clean.
Rabbits do shed especially in the spring and fall. Your rabbit may appreciate thorough brushing to remove dead hair and keep cooler though the summer. If your rabbit doesn’t tolerate a regular brush, try one that is shaped like a glove.
Some rabbits may ocassionally need a nail trim if they are not naturally being filed down from digging behavior.
Make sure that rabbit teeth stay healthy by always offering fresh hay and wood sticks or chews.